Tahanea, The Tuamotos, French Polynesia

This boat life is always dependent on the weather, and whatever we do - even going 10 miles across an atoll, we have to consider the weather. Today, for instance, we were thinking about going to the other side of this Atoll to go drift snorkelling (more on this later) with some other cruisers.

But actually, the forecast, and looking outside shows us the wind would be directly on the nose,  at around 10 knots. So that would mean motoring directly into wind - unpleasant, potentially dangerous bearing in mind the tricky navigating conditions around here, and to be honest - why would you?  We don't have an urgent appointment to attend, so we will go tomorrow with the wind behind us. (hopefully - if the forecast doesn't change 🤞)

Last weekend, the weather forecast was predicting  a couple of big stormy days in the middle of this week.

In the anchorage we were in last week, we would have been unprotected for the predicted SE wind, so we knew we had to move.  

For non sailors - the ideal situation on a sailing boat is to put the anchor down on a sandy bottom, in a place where the land shields you from the predicted wind direction.

This will, hopefully, keep the boat as protected from the strong wind as possible, reduce the risk of the anchor dragging, the boat colliding with other boats, rocks, or ending up on the beach. 

When we were in Mexico, (San Carlos) we were in the pub (as usual!) deciding whether or not to have an ABF (Absolute bloody final)

(Thanks Fiona from SV Avatar for that pneumonic which we have now fully adopted ) Luckily we decided to go back to the boat because when we did, Nauplios was coming to meet us - we had left her safely anchored at one end of the anchorage, and when we got to the anchorage, she had moved, dragged her anchor, maybe a mile, floating in towards the marina. Whoops!!!! 

In his usual style, Crawford said "What the f**k is Nauplios doing out here?"

Unbelievably, she had not hit any other boats -  it is quite a crowded anchorage, and luckily we got back to her when we did, because she was literally about 2 metres from our friends' about to be hit boat SV Soul Rebel. (Sorry Michelle and Joe) 

Crawford leapt off the tender, onto Nauplios, got the engine on, got the boat safe, started lifting the anchor and we reanchored safely somewhere else. 

I think that is the only time we have

1. Said no to an ABF, and

2. Dragged anchor.

Isn't it funny how things work out.

So that, and the fact that Crawford has never really been happy with our anchor, prompted him to order a new one (That is a whole nother story -getting a big heavy anchor delivered to Mexico from America when we don't have an address....) 

We now have a Mantus- a massive heavy anchor, which digs in every single time, and really doesn't move! (💪)

Amazing how much security and nights of great sleep that piece of metal digging into the earth can bring. 

This week, the wind blew around 40 knots for a couple of days and we didn't shift! That anchor earned its money!! Thankyou Mantus.

So after the wind died down, and the sun came back out yesterday, we, first of all, had a  good look at the newly clean Nauplios (after all the rain) then got our snorkels out to go and discover this amazing place. 

Our underwater camera needs someone with a lot of patience and an IT degree before we can upload any photos, but it is seriously like being in an aquarium round here. 

The other big thing - sharks! Anyone who knows me, knows I am the biggest scaredy cat when it comes to anything under the water. 

I love water, but any excuse to get back on the boat when I'm out swimming in the sea, and I am there!

We met a lovely young couple (Thankyou Jess and Parker)  who got us out snorkelling with them, and reassured us that the black fin sharks here, are, not only completely safe, but completely uninterested in us human beings.

So that averted my panic attack for long enough to stay underwater and watch these majestic beasts. I have to say, these sharks do look quite sinister flicking through the water. OMG!! I'll try and get our underwater camera sorted to upload some photos. 

There is a big boomie ( a collection of coral ) just off the back of our boat, and we are about to go and check it out. 

Now I know that England scored dismally in Eurovision I can relax - and well done Sweden! 👏

Thanks so much Parker (SV Noason) for this drone shot of the central anchorage in Tahanea

Sailing notes 

We left Raroia just after high water and the pass was completely calm, unruffled, and steady. A couple of boats left just behind us, and the pass seemed to be whipping up a bit - one of the boats did encounter some white water and got thrown about a bit, so the advice on that would be.....??? Who knows - I guess go and check it out at high water stand and go if you can? 

We worked out the tidal heights just via Navionic tidal range. 

A few boats had left in the morning, at low water stand, and by their reports, it sounded like the water was quite lively, one boat got thrown about a bit. 

 It would have been more logical to go to Makima from Raroia ( which would be a simple overnight passage)  but we were after an anchorage with good protection from the forecasted wind and wanted to go to Tahanea. So we had to slow down and sail over two nights to get here, but it was a seriously pleasant sea and wind. (STILL NO FISH!!) 

We entered the central pass on Tahanea - again just after HW. We had, again, very calm, flat water and the central anchorage - which is beautiful - is just to Starboard. Easy anchorage with lots of sand, we did float our chain which seemed to go quite well. We just attached a pearl float at 1 1/2 x the depth of the water we were anchoring in, then another every 10 metres or so. it seemed to hold it off the bottom fine. (Thanks Bib for the technique tips! )

We then crossed the Atoll to the SE anchorage a couple of days later, for wind protection where we stayed for another 5 nights. The atoll is uninhabited and we saw nobody here apart from 4 or 5 other boats. 

Unbelievably beautiful! 

There are plans afoot to go back to the central anchorage to do a drift dive on the central pass - more to follow. 

From the Galley 

Thankyou so much Robbie and Gene ( of SV Noason) for the fresh vegetables. 

They very kindly gave us two huge pamplemouse which I had a plan to smoothie up with some gin, until my husband reminded me I turn into a crazy bitch with gin. In retrospect, I thought it safer we just eat it with a little bit of brown sugar - it was delicious!!

We are completely out of fresh food now - and not really struggling, but it was lovely to get some vitamin C 

More on chick peas - I made a huge big tub of houmous and made some flat breads with flour water, and  fried up in a lot of olive oil (Not v healthy but delicious) Robbie had given us a huge cucumber so that was also great for a houmous dip. mmmmm! 

This staple food has played a big part in our lives this week - popcorn!